Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Days 26-28- London and back to Madrid

As I mentioned in my last post our flight to London was delayed a couple times so the extra 11 euro we paid in order to have some time in London on Saturday wound up being for naught. We eventually got to the airport in London, from which we had to take a 40 minute bus ride and a 30 minute train ride to our hostel. Once we finally got to the street it took us a few minutes to find the hostel because you had to walk through the bar below it to get to the entrance. Even after figuring that part out, it took another few minutes to realize that we actually needed one of the bartenders to check us in using the same computer that they use to put the orders in. The whole process would probably have been easier had it not been for the 75-100 rabid soccer fans crowding the bar to watch the English national team play Kazakhstan in a world cup qualifier.

After finally navigating our way to the room to set our stuff down we made our way back to the bar to get something to eat. Apparently this particular bar had a Saturday wing special where 10 wings were 8 GBP, but 50 wings were only 15 GBP; I'll leave you to guess which we ordered.

Sunday morning we got up in time for the free breakfast at the hostel and (theoretically) for an 11:00 tour. We took a train and two subways to the spot where the tour was supposed to meet with two girls from the hostel, but by the time we got there it had either left or wasn't going at all that day. In any event, the four of us decided to just make our own tour which covering the changing of the guard at Buckingham palace, Trafalgar square, a couple exhibits at the British Museum, Big Ben, Parliament, Westminster Abbey, the tower of London and tower bridge. After a break short break we continued past the Globe theater to the London Eye, basically an overgrown ferris wheel, that, despite the unique views it offered, was the opposite of worth 17 GBP.

After the Eye we had the bright idea to eat dinner and go out in Soho, not realizing that the metro closed at 11:45. After a brief attempt to figure out the bus schedule we got into a cab. The cab would've been really cool had it not been a pretty expensive ride back to Greenwich, because it was one of the old style ones where the back seats faced one another.

We made it to the airport shortly before our flight began boarding, leaving just enough time for Ryan Air to rob us blind before boarding. Apparently Ryan Air isn't a real airline it just pretends to be, they require you to check in online and print your boarding pass online, or face a 40 GBP/person airport check in fee. That's a pain, but doesn't really seem like that big a deal, until their website locks you out and wn't let you check in online. You'd think that when it's their fault that you can't check in online they'd apologize and waive the airport check in fee; instead they charge you and give you a fax number to complain to, because apparently in England it is legal to rob people. @#$#% you Ryan Air.

When we landed in Madrid the aforementioned airline further demonstrated it's arrogance by playing a triumphant jingle and recording bragging that our flight was among the 90% of Ryan Air flights that arrived on time. That was immediately before they announced that we'd be waiting another 20 minutes for gate to open up. @#$#% you Ryan Air.

After checking into the hostel yesterday afternoon we retrieved Sean's extra bags from the train station, which was shockingly easy considering that he'd lost the ticket and left them in the locker well over the 15 day maximum. Later on we went to see Star Trek, which was thankfully in English with Spanish subtitles.

Tonight we're hoping to see a bullfight before heading home in the morning. My flight should be getting into RDU at 6:45, see you all soon.

Saturday, June 6, 2009

Days 22-25- Munich

We got to Munich Wednesday afternoon with literally no idea where our hostel was located. As we were looking for an information booth at the train station, we conveniently found instead, an ad for the hostel indicating that it was less than a km down the street.

In addition to being just down the street from the train station our hostel was right across the street from the Augustiner Brewery/Beer Hall. We had dinner there shortly after checking into the hostel and I felt obligated to order the "Big XXL Bavarian Meat Plate" (no joke, that's what it was called on the English menu even though it was only one word on the German menu). Though maybe not a direct translation, the description was certainly appropriate, because about 10 minutes later I had three kinds of meat cooked six different ways all smothered in a "dark beer gravy" and it was excellent.

We got up the next morning hoping to take a free bike tour at 11:30. For the second time in Germany we just missed getting into the morning tour and were promised that we'd be able to catch the second round at 2:30. In the meantime we visited the famous Haufbrahaus, where a liter is the smallest beer available, and wandered through the Englischer Garten, complete with another Biergarten.

We got back to the tour starting point at 2:30, seeing as that's when it was supposed to start. It didn't actually start until 4:00, but that's ok, because it gave us more time to hang out outside a subway station. The tour, by the way, was not on conventional bicycles, as you might expect a bike tour to be; instead the tour was conducted on a four wheeled contraption with a steering wheel at the front, a bar in the middle, and fifteen seats around the bar, most with peddles beneath them. I think on the 3 hour tour we may have reached a top speed of 10 mph (while going downhill); I don't think the beers they kept handing us did anything to speed our pedaling. Apparently we got "lucky" to take the apparatus tour for free because the next day they were planning to start charging 20 euros for it. We had a lot of fun on this tour, but it was by far the least informative of any that I've ever been on; one of the guides, who was still in training, actually admitted that they made up certain aspects of it.

After the tour we went to a different hostel's bar, which sold beer for 1 euro during happy hour, with some other college students from the tour. We debated going out, but decided that we needed to be up too early the next morning to make it worth it.

We got up yesterday and took a two hour train and a thirty minute hike to Neuschwanstein (sp?), which supposedly inspired Walt Disney's design for Sleeping Beauty's castle and is apparently the most visited tourist attraction in Germany. He we got the polar opposite of Lenny's apparatus tour from Frau Finn, who led us through a very informative, but obviously scripted tour in the most monotone voice possible. The castle was somewhat interesting and there were some incredible views from the castle and the surrounding grounds. One interesting point from the tour was that the castle was never actually completed because King Ludwig mysteriously died one day after being deemed mentally incompetent to rule. You can kind of tell as you walk through the castle (which was built in the late 19th Ce) that he might have been a little bit off his rocker, because every room is decorated with huge murals depicting myths and legends; it all seemed a little over the top for the time period.

Once we finally got back to Munich, we an into our same friends from the apparatus tour at a restaurant between the train station and the hostel. We went with them back to the Augustiner Brewery, where I happened upon what was quite possibly the strangest drink I've ever been served. The menu was in German and identified it only as a "Russ'n", but I'm ninety percent certain that it was half white beer and half lemon soda. After leaving the Augustiner we made started to make our way to a club mentioned in one of the city guides, but wound up following two German guys to a different set of clubs. One of the guys had spent a year of high school in the US & seemed really excited to have someone to talk american football with.

This morning we got to the airport to find that our flight to London had been delayed, and then it wound up sitting on the tarmac for several more minutes waiting for some rain to clear. We finally got into London around two and then to our hotel about two hours after that. We'll be here until Monday morning and then we'll head back to Madrid. I'll try to make at least one more post before I fly home net Wednesday.

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Days 19-22- Berlin

Well I guess it's been a couple days since I've posted. Last you heard we were on our way to Berlin for two nights, we wound up spending three nights there & now we're in Munich. We got on a bus a little after 8 this morning and got here shortly before 5. I'm sure you're all surprised after my last post that I would consent to bus travel again, but it was less than half the price of a train and a fourth of the cost of a flight, so 8 hour bus ride it is. It wasn't a bad ride at all, the bus was less than half full so we each had 2 seats to ourselves, and I guess Germans run a little bigger than Greeks or Spaniards, because there was actually an appropriate amount of legroom on this bus.

Now t recap the last few days, we got to Berlin Sunday night and really lucked out with our hostel. Not only did it have large rooms and air conditioning, but there was a huge festival going on Friday though Monday about two blocks from the front door. It was apparently the annual festival of cultures, so there were a couple music stages and hundreds of small stands selling food and drinks from around the world. We spent about two hours Sunday night just wandering around this festival; I got ripped off on some dried fruit and we had our first taste of German wursts and beer. A couple observations about the Germans, first, while they do deserve a good deal of credit for their brats, someone needs to start importing some hot dog buns, because serving a brat on a round roll makes about as much sense as rooting for Duke. Secondly, there is either an epidemic of kleptomania or some kind of push for recycling here, because you cannot buy any kind of drink without a deposit for the cup, glass, or plastic bttle that it comes in; and it's not the 10 cent deposit that Michigan puts on cans either, it is often as much as a Euro. After the festival I was, finally, able to do laundry for the first time this trip so I'm feeling much cleaner now.

Monday we slept in a little bit and tried to take a free walking tour at 1; unfortunately one of the guides didn't show and we got bumped to the 4 o'clock tour. That gave us a couple hours to wander around on our own. Berlin is by far the most spread out city we've visited on this trip, it's still walkable, because it's very flat, but it takes a while to get from one spot to the next. Before meeting back up with the tour group at four we stopped for lunch at a subway, which is notable only because it was the first place in Europe that I've seen a self service soda fountain (read free refills), it's rare enough to see one behind the counter.

The free tour (which really just means that you're expected to tip the guide rather than buy a ticket), was very interesting and informative. It covered, in about 3 hours, most of the history of Germany (which I was surprised to find out only really began in the 1870s). Surprisingly, the entire tour was in the former East Berlin, most of the major sites and memorials (which there are quite a few of) were East of the wall, or in between the two walls.

The tour began at the Brandenburg Gate, which incidentally was built in the 18th century as a symbol of victory. Funny story about this gate, there's a famous sculpture atop it, of a goddess pulled in a chariot by four horses. When the gate was built she was the goddess of peace and she looked straight ahead over the city, but at some point France stole the statue, it's unclear to me how, because I can't imagine the French taking anything by force. Eventually though, Germany got it back and when they did, the changed the goddess to be the goddess of victory and shifted her gaze to stare directly at the French Embassy. This was one of the highlights of the tour for me, because I'm always in the mood for a good joke about the French.

The next stop on our tour was the Reichstag, now the seat of the German Parliament. It was originally built to be the Seat of the Weimar (sp?) republic after WWI, but after Hitler burned it down and blamed the communists in order to gain power, it fell out of use. It was on the East side when Berlin was split, but since it was between the two walls, the soviets didn't bother to rebuild it. Like seemingly everything on our tour the reconstruction came only after a design contest to determine the best way to rebuild it. It really is a cool building, there is a glass dome with walkways going around it open to the public, directly above the parliament chamber. The idea is apparently to constantly remind the politicians who they work for, by placing the people above them.

From the Reichstag we made our way to the Memorial for the Murdered Jews of Europe, which was by far the most powerful of the memorials we saw. Sean and I had actually stumbled upon it by accident during the 3 hours we were waiting to start the tour, and interesting, our experience was exactly as our guide described its intention. First of all the monument is huge, there are apparently 2,711 cement blocks (each about 3' X 6', I'd say). The blocks are neatly arranged into rows and columns, but vary in height from 1' to at least 12'. When you get to the memorial, and you really can't help but get there eventually, because it's right in the middle of everything, there are no signs to tell you what it is, but it is painfully obvious that it has some significance. We wound up wandering through the memorial, until we found the entrance to the exhibit below, which is where we finally found out what it was. We didn't have time to walk through the exhibit until the next day, so I'll explain that more later.

Back to the tour, our guide explained that this memorial was very controversial, particularly in the choice of it's location. There was big push to build the memorial at one of the concentration camps (Sachsenhausen was about an hour north of Berlin, and there are trips and tours available). This spot, where the memorial was constructed, has no real relation to the holocaust, but our guide argued, and I'm inclined to agree, that even if you offer free trips to and from Saschsenhausen, people have to make a decision to go. This memorial, right in the middle of the city, forces you to confront the issue of the holocaust, whether you want to or not. It is a daily reminder for many Berliners, that walk, bike, or drive past it on their way to work, what can happen when power is concentrated in the wrong hands.

We moved on from the holocaust memorial, to a very different, and appropriately non-existent memorial. We stopped in a parking lot 50 meters above the bunker where Hitler committed suicide. There isn't so much as a plaque to commemorate him, and it isn't clear what happened to his remains so this parking lot is the closest thing there is to his final resting place. It's worth speaking here of the obvious struggle in Germany, to come to grips with this part of history. There is an obvious effort to acknowledge and memorialize these atrocities, by the German government, but they're also, understandably, hesitant to acknowledge the man who set them in motion. The Nazi party, is incidentally, still an actual political party in Germany, and there is a fear that any acknowledgment would turn into a neo-nazi shrine. On the other hand, the vast majority of Germans hate his memory, when the Madame Toussaud's was museum in Berlin built a Hitler exhibit, he was decapitated within two hours.

From the parking lot we moved on to cover several more memorials, including the site of the
Nazi book burnings and a memorial for the German soldiers, spanning multiple wars. I won't bore you with the details of all these memorials other than to describe the site of the book burnings, which i thought was really cool. The book burnings took place in a square between the library, an opera house, and the University, in the middle of this square there is a piece of glass that looks down into a room full of empty bookshelves.

The tour also took us, quickly, past checkpoint charlie. I didn't realize before this tour that there were actually two walls, both on the soviet side, so that if someone managed to get over the first wall, soviet snipers would be able to pick them off before they made it over the second one. They walls not only split the city down the middle, but also went all the way around West Berlin, about 100 miles, and their first incarnation, begun at 2 am, was completed in 57 hours.

Tuesday morning we got up relatively early, thinking that the Third Reich tour we wanted to take started at 11, it actually didn't start until 1. After realizing this, and some minor confusion about what time it actually was, we got a chance to visit the exhibit beneath the Memorial for the Murdered Jews of Europe. The exhibit began with a time line, describing the iterations that the Nazi Persecution went through prior to the final solution. The most powerful parts of the exhibit though, were the efforts to share the individual stories of many of the murdered Jews. One room had sections of the floor lit to display notes handwritten by men, women, and children in or on their way to concentration camps. Another was completely dark and quiet, except for a screen on each wall displaying the name of one of the victims and a narrator giving their brief personal history. The next room told the stories of families affected by the holocaust, showing family pictures, and describing the way the families were split up and most of them eventually killed. The last room was perhaps the most difficult to deal with, there were phones built into alcoves down one wall that you could pick up and listen to stories from holocaust survivors. I think that overall the exhibit and memorial were very well done and pretty appropriate, but it was difficult to walk through and think about, not at all enjoyable.

The Third Reich tour that we eventually took that afternoon was good, but it was a little repetitive from the "free" tour the day before. Last night we kind of went on the pub crawl organized by the same people who run the tours. I say kind of, because technically we never paid, but it was kind of their fault since the only person who could collect the money seemed to be on an hour long 10 minute break. We left before even getting to the last stop since we were planning to take the bus so early this morning. I didn't realize when we left how far we actually were from the hostel, but it took us almost an hour to walk back.

I think that about covers Berlin, we'll be in Munich for at least two nights, but we've yet to decide where we're going next. Any suggestions?